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I have prepared the following information to the best of my knowledge and experience. If you are ever concerned about the well-being of your Cavy (Guinea Pig), it is important to consult a vet at the earliest opportunity. Cavies often hide the fact that they are ill as a deterrent against predators. Diarrhoea in Guinea Pigs can be a killer as they can become dehydrated very quickly so swift action needs to be taken if this ever occurs.
QUESTION: DO I GET ONE OR TWO GUINEA PIGS?
ANSWER: Two, wherever possible. They are a herd animal so do best in pairs.
Living alone they can spend a lot of time sitting in a corner – add another and the difference is clear - your pigs will communicate with each other, feed more fervently and be happier. They aren’t solitary animals and need companionship. Unless you want babies (with all the potential financial costs and emotional issues that may be incurred), get a pair of the same sex! Just a word of warning - sows can become pregnant from as little as six weeks of age and boars can be mature enough to successfully mate from 3 weeks of age. So often, females purchased from pet shops (often the well known pet shops) are actually already pregnant and this can be very dangerous for very young sows.
QUESTION: SHOULD I GET MALES (BOARS) OR FEMALES (SOWS)?
ANSWER: This is going to be your choice. A pair of males from the same litter is usually fine but may need careful introductions if from a different litter – if you are able to introduce those to each other at 3-6 weeks, it can help. (A breeder will usually do that for you if you request it as boars needs to be removed from the mum and any sisters at 3 weeks). It is also possible to introduce a young boar to an older boar. Of course, it is also an excellent idea to put a neutered boar in with a sow. It has often been said that boars are more cuddly than sows as they are more outgoing so don’t discount boars.
As long as you never introduce females into the equation, a pair of bonded boars USUALLY make lifetime companions for each other. It is rare to get two females (sows) who don't get along, especially if they've been together since a young age.
If you think you may want three cavies at some point, then go for the sows as it is very difficult (if not impossible) to get three boars to get along together for any length of time!
There is really no full and fast answer to this question as whatever sex they are, they all have different personalities and likes and dislikes!
QUESTION: CAN I PUT A GUINEA PIG IN WITH MY RABBIT?
ANSWER: No, No, No Please never put Rabbits and Guinea Pigs in together – Rabbits can kill or injure cavies with one kick, either accidentally or deliberately. Rabbits also have different dietary requirements – Guinea Pig food has added Vitamin C, Rabbit food does not. Guinea Pigs are vocal and speak a different “language” than Rabbits so they will not be able to communicate. The only suitable companion for your Guinea Pig is, yes, you’ve guessed it …… another Guinea Pig!
QUESTION: WHAT SIZE HUTCH OR CAGE SHOULD I BUY?
ANSWER: Aim for at least 8 square foot per pair on Guinea Pigs. For 2 Guinea Pigs that are going to spend a fair amount of their time in a hutch/cage, at least a 4ft wide x 2ft Deep (120 cm x 60 cm) – the bigger the better.
http://www.zooplus.co.uk/shop/rodents/cages/rabbit_cage/14083
Read the reviews!
http://www.happyhutch.co.uk/details.php?product=22 (look at 4ft w x 2ft x 2ft as a start, or the 5ft w)
Guinea Pigs need to have plenty of space to run around – exercise and ‘things to do’ are extremely important for their long-term physical and mental health. Once they settle in to their new home, they will use every inch of space you can give them for running, exploration and popcorning! They also like a cosy corner set aside for napping and relaxing in. Please don't buy a "wheel" as an alternative exercise option - Guineas don't have the correct physique for these wheels and serious injuries can occur.
Adult Guinea Pigs are quite large and what could look like a big enough space when you first bring them home could soon be cramped and unsuitable. The “starter hutches” sold in a lot of pet shops are usually way too small and of poor quality so don’t automatically think you have to opt for one of those. Please don't buy the black wired hutches, sold on Ebay and at large pet stores. The wire mesh is too widely spaced and rats and mice can easily get in.
It is a myth dreamt up by manufacturers and pet shops for commercial reasons that Guinea Pigs don’t need much space – they most certainly do! They have legs, muscles and a brain and inbetween naps need to be moving, playing and foraging for food. Watch mine out in their runs and the above statement speaks for itself.
There are plenty of types and the correct sized hutches available direct from manufacturers on the internet (Ebay is a good source as well) – please pay that little bit extra for that larger size – I assure you it will be worth every penny to see them at play and enjoying life! The bigger the hutch/cage is, the more tunnels etc you can put in there!
If you do end up with a small hutch/enclosure for them for whatever reason, please ensure they have plenty of free floor/run time daily and that will be fine too. Just as eager as they are to go out in the runs, at the end of the day they will be just as eager to get back in their cosy beds for a well-earned nap!
QUESTION: CAN I USE A RUN WITH A HUTCH ON TOP?
ANSWER: Yes, but usually some modifications are necessary to make the ramp safe. This ramp (I made myself) is an example of what is suitable. If they are too steep and harsh on their feet, they won’t use it. If it is shallow and has very gentle grips, they will go up and down continuously just for fun! You really should consider putting high sides on the ramp - if they fall off, they can easily break bones. A good tip is to have a plain plank of wood and cover and glue some hessian - that is perfectly good/cheap, safe and easy for them to grip onto.
A really excellent hutch/run is the Eglu Omlet (no ramps to worry about!). OK, so a new one will cost a fortune (about £360 new/£320 for one with a shorter run)) BUT the secondhand value is approx £220/260 on Ebay and it will last pretty much forever! Very easy to keep clean, move around and very user friendly and fun for the pigs too!
QUESTION: CAN THEY LIVE IN OUR HOUSE?
ANSWER: Yes. It is also perfectly acceptable and to house them indoors year round – that way they really become part of the family! However, in my opinion, there is always a need for at least some daily natural light to provide essential vit D.
Some options for indoor housing:-
A standard indoor cage - the one shown previously (Ferplast Rabbit 120) is ideal for a pair. As the lip is quite deep, it's nice to add something that they can stand on to look out as they like to be nosey! This one particularly is great because the front completely opens. Make sure that they can easily reach their water bottle.
Check out this website for some inside caging ideas – www.cavycages.com. Identical wire cubes systems can be purchased from several outlets in the UK,.
The piggies get better visibility out of the wider squared ones but these aren't suitable for pups or for shed use as unwanted rodents can get in so in the end it depends how you want them to be!
This is another stockist of the finer mesh grids. http://www.edenshop.co.uk/erol.html#2406x0&&
The corrugated plastic (Correx) can be purchased from signmakers/plastics suppliers – price approx £8.00 for a huge piece. This of course makes a very cheap and an excellent size cage. Bear in mind that this type of caging is not easily transportable if your Guineas need to go to friends whilst you are holidaying.
QUESTION: COULD THEY LIVE OUTSIDE DURING THE WINTER?
ANSWER: Generally, it is preferable to either bring them indoors or house them in a shed or greenhouse for the Winter months. It is also more beneficial for the owner if they can tend to them without getting soaking wet or blown away in the process! Generally though in the more warmer parts of the UK, housing outside is ok but just give plenty of warm bedding and clean out often so they are not sitting on wet and cold bedding.
QUESTION: SHOULD I BATH MY GUINEA PIG
ANSWER: Bathing and grooming is a nice thing to do for your Guinea Pig! I recommend a shampoo AT LEAST every 6 months; and probably at least every 2 months for Teddies and Rexes. I believe the CCT (Cambridge Cavy Trust)recommend bathing MONTHLY in a anti-dandruff/anti-fungal and anti mite shampoo. Test water with your elbow to prevent accidental scalding.
For Teddies and Rexes it is ESSENTIAL to comb through thoroughly once a week to remove grass seeds that become lodged in their fur and irritate. If left, this can lead to dandruffy skin and fungal problems. I recommend a small size soft wire slicker brush, used carefully (examples shown on the left).
QUESTION: How often should I clip nails?
ANSWER: Check them every 4 - 6 weeks. It will depend upon what sort of surface they are on but usually they will need a trim every 6 weeks. I use small animal nail scissors, available from most pet shops.
QUESTION: WHAT IS THE BEST BEDDING TO USE?
POSSIBLE ANSWERS:
MEGAZORB (soft sterilized pulped wood) is my favourite though but sometimes a bit difficult to get hold of. Check out the Northern Crop driers website (left) for stockists. Haven Homes Equestrian Supplies nr Dursley, Glos stocks it at about £5.50 per sack.
AUBIOSE (hemp) is good with some hay on top. Check out the Aubiose website (left) for stockists/info. Usually available from most country/equestrian stores.
Some people use a layer of WOODSHAVINGS. However, the Cambridge Cavy Trust refutes the safety of wood-shavings for Cavies indicating a link to respiratory problems and internal and external fungal infections. Also woodshavings can get stuck in boars' parts making it extremely uncomfortable and leading to infection. In the end, it's your choice.
It is also possible to use FLEECE or VETBED with newspaper underneath - it keeps them warm and the wet wicks away and soaks downwards. Simply lift out and brush off before washing. The Guineas like it a lot and I have tried it out in some of my cages. It will need changing every other day or even daily. You do need to understand that it goes in your washing machine and without care to remove hay etc, can clog the filters, or even worse cause a divorce!
I recommend lining wooden hutches with vinyl flooring or painting the base (and even the sides) with several layers of a water-based varnish as this makes it quick and easy to scoop out the dirty bedding, quick wipe over and then new bedding in. Fit vinyl tight to corners and glue down. Because urine does not soak into the wood, there is no lingering smell and flies are not attracted.
A cardboard boot box (available free from shoe shops!), stuffed with hay with an entrance hole and some ventilation holes, makes a good warm hideaway for those cold Winter nights.
QUESTION: CAN I PUT MY GUINEA PIGS OUT IN A RUN?
ANSWER: Your Guinea Pigs will enjoy being out in a run on the lawn during warm weather.
Don’t put them onto recently chemically treated lawns though.
Don’t leave them out in the cold and wet – they hate it and may well get ill.
Ensure that they have PLENTY of shade and that a water bottle is attached to the run. Guinea Pigs regularly die of heatstroke where an owner has either forgotten to put shade over or forgotten that the sun moves around! If they get heatstroke and an owner doesn't spot it soon enough, they normally die. On most hot and sunny days you should actually COMPLETELY shade the top, still letting air flow through the sides – they will get enough sun coming through the sides of the run. Perhaps you could get that special request added to any order!
If you buy a rectangular run with no shade, you could
- buy a shade cover from www.omlet.co.uk (approx £12). Clips easily onto most normal wire mesh, or use a tarpaulin (cheap and works well);
- nail pond liner to the top, or
- get some pieces of plywood (nail or weight down)
Both the above will also act as a rain shelter as well as a sun shade
- camouflage netting from army surplus stores, or
- simply a broken up cardboard box weighted down
I have rectangular, top opening runs as you need good access for yourself for catching them. An apex run with a house/shelter at one end should be ok too as long as there is at least 6 inches of mesh/boarding underneath the access hatch (as they can easily scoot out - I know that by experience!) and that there is enough space for you to get in to catch them.
You should really consider at least a 6ft long run to give them enough space to get up some speed!
The internet/Ebay is an excellent source for decent sized ones or if you have a handyperson in the house, they are not difficult to make! Email nessyandshaun@aol.com as they do excellent quality sturdy runs. They also sell on Ebay.
QUESTION: WHAT SHOULD I FEED MY GUINEA PIGS?
Answer: Some would recommend using a pellet food rather than flakes as this prevent selective feeding, however if you are giving plenty of fresh food, it becomes less important if they leave a few bits of a muesli mix. Some pelleted products include Burgess Supa Guinea Pig Excel, Supreme Science Selective, Oxbow Cavy Cuisine (available from SPH Supplies). One muesli type mix is Wagg Guinea Pig Crunch (mine are currently fed on this). Whatever you decide to use, do use a proper Guinea Pig food with added Vitamin C. I personally would avoid mixes with artificial colourings - yes, believe it or not, there are Guinea foods with plenty of added E numbers!
Guinea Pigs must be given a good handful of fresh VEGETABLES (more is even better) daily and sometimes just a little fruit and they MUST have UNLIMITED access to fresh HAY (ensure the hay (and dried mix) is NOT MOULDY AS THIS IS DANGEROUS)) and WATER (hay is very important for grinding their teeth down and for digestion).
They love fresh grass and it’s good for them! Mine get a good pile every dayand as much as I can scrape together in the Winter months.
Note that Guinea Pigs are totally reliant on eating Vitamin C to keep them healthy and happy and MUST HAVE Vitamin C DAILY from the foods they eat. It is essential to provide plenty of fresh foods that are high in Vitamin C otherwise they will get ill.
Kale is a high Vit C food as are Green & Red Peppers (not the hot chile peppers), Spring Greens/Greens, Dandelions (don’t give too many dandelions though as they are a diuretic), Parsley (again good but not too much of this), Coriander, Turnip Greens and Carrot tops. They love corn on the cob (both cob and leaves). A couple of leaves daily of lettuce is good for them but best not to give them Iceburg lettuce. They like carrots but only chunks a few times a week or so as they are high in calcium and vit A - scientific evidence seems to prove they are linked to causing stones. Only feed Cabbage and Broccoli in small quantities, say, a few times a week, or in very small amounts more often as it can cause gas. Spring/summer grass is good for them and they love it! Winter grass contains very little nutrition but if yu can give them a little of it as the fibre it contains is good for them and it keeps them happy! There are lots of other vegetables that your Guinea Pigs will enjoy so check out books and websites.
Some wild plants are also good but some are poisonous, so if in doubt or you don’t know, leave it out! Note: BUTTERCUPS ARE POISONOUS!
DO NOT FEED THE FOLLOWING:
Raw beans (poisonous),
Iceberg lettuce (no nutritional value and can cause diarohea),
Nuts or seeds (they may choke), Apple pips contain small traces of cyanide so disgard the pips!
Rhubarb (extremely poisonous),
Potatoes (green bits in potatoes are poisonous),
Lawnmower clippings - unless given immediately and you can ensure there are no nasty weeds in it (fermenting grass clippings can cause bloat and can ultimately kill them) – it is perfectly ok to cut some grass with shears though.
Buttercups (poisonous),
Avocados (poisonous).
Tomato leaves and stalk (the tomato itself though is fine in moderation)
Privet leaves (poisonous)
Dairy foods
Meat and fish).
many cultivated garden plants are toxic.
I also have been told that Daisies are toxic, although mine have definitely eaten the flowers before without any noticeable problems?
Note this is not a complete list.
QUESTION: WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM IF I NOTICE SOME BALD PATCHES OR THE COAT LOOKS GENERALLY MANKY?
ANSWER: If you see any of the above, your Guinea Pig could have mites or a fungal problem.
Mites:
If you suspect mites, (invisible to the human eye) you will need to see a vet and your vet will need to treat your Guinea Pig with Ivermectin, usually by injection. With mites there may intitially be a bit of coat loss/bald patches and then will become generally scabby on the body of the Guinea Pig and it does cause severe itching. If there are scabs on the face then you may actually be looking at a fungal problem and it could potentially be ringworm but a vet would need to check for this.
Lice:
Lice are different to the mites referred to above. Unless it is a particularly bad infestation, there probably will not be any hair loss. Lice can be seen as white or brown specks on the skin and fur and they can be got rid of very easily by using a Guinea Pig insecticidal spray or shampoo, purchased from a pet shop. Lice don’t normally cause too much problem except for some scratching! They are cavy specific so humans can't catch them! They do however need to be got rid of. Lice will also mean a disqualification when being shown!
Fungal:
If the skin dandruffy/flaky/greasy and hair pulls away with skin, or if the vet treats for mites and there is still an ongoing problem, this may actually be a fungal problem. A vet may well suggest Imaverol animal dip (very harsh and only to be used in the most severe of cases) or Malaseb shampoo, or Sporal D – all of which seem to be effective against fungal problems. Beaphar Anti Fungal spray is recommended and is available from Pets and Home or from online stores such as www.equinecaninefeline.com. It is also advisable to give a daily Vit C supplement of up to 30mg for a few weeks.
QUESTION: SHOULD I ADD VITAMIN C DROPS TO THE WATER BOTTLE?
ANSWER: I definately wouldn't advise this as a replacement for fresh veg, the vitamin C content degrades in hours and the Guinea Pig may not like the taste and may stop drinking completely. Personnally I would just stick to giving a good amount of fresh vegetables daily and a good quality GP food.
As with any animal, please wash your hands thoroughly after handling and after cleaning out cages.
I have covered some of the basics here based on my knowledge and personal experiences but please note this is by no means in place of a vet’s diagnosis. Do check out books and websites for more. Some very useful and interesting websites are posted on my Links page.
These two happy little piggies are in a hutch/run combo belonging to one of my friends. The run is 6ft long, the hutch is 3ft L x 2ft D. It is situated in an open shed and the hutch is opened and they are let out every morning.
This one was purchased from Wyevale Garden Centre.
My personal preference is the Mikki Kitten Slicker brush (has plastic blobs on the end to protect the skin) available from www.petplant.co.uk or from Pets at Home (in the cat/dog brushes section). Also comes with a brush cleaner and a flea comb which is good to use for making sure hay seeds/bits are cleared.
Did you know that humans, apes and cavies are the only mammals that require a daily intake of vitamin c from an external source - all other manufacture their own vitamin c from within their bodies .....
